Wednesday, December 07, 2005

Shit. But thank you so much

Just a quickie to say muchos, much gracias to everyone who came to the party on Saturday: it was truly top and we both had hangovers to match. Pauline and Claude, and Jacqui M: you win top prize for your lovely surprise appearances straight from Paris and New York, respectively.

So, unless I expire from boiling bloodpressure (my bank can't find my missing Visa card, there's a leak in one of the rental flats, backpacks are as yet unpacked, Amanda has a cold, I'm still not wearing knickers because of rushing around all day long and our room on J&M's top floor looks like donkey bollocks), we'll be feeling unfriendly towards each other at 5.45am in a taxi on our way to Gatwick. Hurrah.

If Comrade Castro allows, we'll update the blog from some Cuban beach - if not, it'll be Buenos Aires in the New Year.

Merry Xmas all.

Thursday, November 24, 2005

We’ll be turning right out of England

Fired up by fear, adrenaline bull-runs and sub-zero temperatures, we are sliding, slightly uncontrollably, towards our much-anticipated D-Day. In 2 weeks we will jump the bungee to Cuba, South America, Oz and, hopefully, a bloody good time on a few other continents too.

In the meanwhile, the organisational baggage of a combined 72 years is traumatically testing our patience (losing), relationship (winning) and sleeping (failing). As we move out of our shoe box under the eaves, we move into each other, inexplicably perturbed by the loss of a home.

Packing until the early hours of a Sunday morning, I wake up broken and faithless on seeing the collection of boxes, suitcases, bulging supermarket bags, camel packs - and one saxophone - and slink moodily into a corner, sipping on a cup of rooibos tea.

Because the storeroom that's costing us the GDP of an African country is smaller than most room cupboards and shit, shit what are we going to do with all the excess baggage and I've been remonstrating with Amanda right from the start that we have too many possessions.

Three hours later and I'm making promises of unfettered naughtinesses to two chunky Afrikaner boys (and their white van) because not only does the whole patootie fit into the storeroom - there's space for more.

And so we burn one once-white bra after the other (while uncovering new ones in unexpected places), and lurch from drinky session to dentist to Council Tax office to Cuban car hire website (still dithering whether to book it from the UK or locally).

But overlaying all the turbulence, histrionics and unspoken concerns over uprooting, is a thick blanket of excitement for all the unknown sights, experiences and people we will be lucky enough to encounter over the next year or so.

We are going to Cape Town via Tierra del Fuego and we are very excited.

Tuesday, November 08, 2005

Our itinerary


Left: Showing off our new gear, including a mosquito-proof t-shirt. (It works - we weren't bitten in our Stoke Newington flat.)

On 8 December, at 9.35am to be precise, we take off from Heathrow with Virgin Atlantic - direct to La Habana. And that's where the adventure begins - at least for a year, but who knows what will happen beyond that?

Come and join us - Nicki and Chopper are meeting up with us in Cuba. This is our itinerary for the first four months if you need a break from the hum-drum and want to know where to catch up with us. Also, please feel free to leave us any comments by clicking on Comments...

(Our flight itinerary may seem too planned, but we fully expect some unforeseen changes)

  • Thu 08Dec05: London to Havana
  • Fri 30Dec05: Havana to Buenos Aires (arrive on 31 Dec - what will NY's Eve be like?) 7 days BA + Uruguay
  • Sat 07 Jan: Buenos Aires to Iguazu Falls (on the border with Brazil)
  • Mon 09 Jan: Iguazu back to BA and straight to Salta in north-west Argentinia
    6 days (7 nights) Salta + environs
  • Mon 16 Jan06: Salta to BA and straight on to Trelew in Patagonia
    ... and the next month is overland going to:
    Valdes Peninsula
    Patagonia to Tierra del Fuego, the glaciers etc
    3 days boat trip Puerta Natales to Puerto Montt. Chile's Lake District. And then off to see my friend Nelis for the first time since 1984.
  • Mon 13Feb06: Santiago to Calama, for the Aticama desert
  • Fri 17Feb06: Calama to Arica to get us as close as poss. to Peruvian border. From here we go overland to Arequipa (where Dante, our spanish teacher, is from). We'll have a bit of a wander in Colca Canyon, then make our way to Puno and Lake Titicaca + environs
  • Plan to get to Cusco roughly on 27 Feb06 to acclimatise for 3 days before 4-day Inca Trail
  • Wed 8Mar06: Cusco to Iquitos (via Lima) for an Amazon trip
  • Wed 15Mar06: Iquitos to Lima for one night
  • Thurs 16 March: Lima to Quito in Equador, for 7-day Galapagos boat trip etc
  • Mon 27 Mar06: Quito to Santiag0
  • Wed 29 Mar06: Santiago to Sydney - arrive on 1 April 2006

Monday, November 07, 2005

Any tips for travelling in South America?

Knowing that you don't know can be alarmingly scary. So we've got a lot of questions and quite a few assumptions:

  • Safety - be careful and sensible, yes. But are there any spots in BA, Santiago, Cusco, Lima, Iquitos etc we should best avoid? Any suggestions for a really practical money-belt? (Even considering strapping valuables underneath my ample breasts - but that's just plain silly.)
  • Lolly - we're thinking a combination of cash (dollars?), credit card, travellers' cheques and debit card to raid the holes in the wall (yep, got the Nationwide account that doesn't charge for overseas usage). Update: Following George W's renewal of the trade embargo, the dollar carries a 10% "charge" in Cuba so sterling and euro are the way to go, apparently. And the ATMs are not the way to go - telephone lines are down most of the time.
  • Food - whereas I fully expect to loose at least a stone over the four months it would be good to remember the trip for its people, places and activities and not for a lingering whiff of vomit.
  • Inca Trail - want to use a local trail operator, and not an exorbitant UK-based one. Any suggestions for a responsible, environmentally aware tour company in Cusco that treats its porters well?